Spearmint (Mentha spicata)

Plant description

A hardy perennial herb with green lance shaped leaves and sharp serrated edges. Underground runners enable this herb to be easily propagated. The flowers are pink or lilac coloured and appear on cylindrical spikes.

History

Used throughout history as a culinary herb for its help in settling the digestive system. Ancient Greeks used spearmint to scent bathwater to freshen the senses. Applied to the forehead and temples to ease headaches throughout Europe.
Botanical Family

Lamiaceae
Key constituents

L-carvone (50-70%) dihydrocarvone, phellandrene, limonene, menthone, menthol, cineol, linalol and pinenes.
Main therapeutic properties

Anesthetic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cephalic, decongestant, digestive, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, stomachic.
Main therapeutic uses

Congested skin, acne, asthma, bronchitis, sinusitis, colic, dyspepsia, flatulence, nausea, fevers, headaches, migraine, nervous tension.
Blends well with

Lavender, Jasmine, Eucalyptus, Basil & Rosemary.
Safety data

Not suitable to use with homeopathic remedies.
Additional information

The oil is produced from the flowering tops of the Spearmint plant and is a pale yellow or 'olive' colour with a spicy minty scent. Very similar properties to Peppermint but is a milder version and more suitable for use with children and during pregnancy. Widely used as a flavouring compound for toiletries, toothpaste, confectionary and chewing gum.
Spearmint has a cooling effect on the skin and a fresh deodorising scent, excellent to use with body scrubs and for massage on a hot day to cool and freshen.
If you suffer from travel sickness try adding a couple of drops of Spearmint oil to a cotton wool ball and leave on the parcel shelf of the car.

Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata)

Plant description

A tall tropical tree which grows up to 20m in height. The leaves are large and dark green in colour. Long slender flowers are produced which are highly scented. Flowers can be pink, mauve or yellow although the yellow flowers are considered the best for the extraction of essential oils.

History

Ylang Ylang flowers have been used for cosmetic and hair care products for many hundreds of years in the Molucca Islands, Indonesia and were traditionally spread onto the beds of newly married couples. Ylang Ylang was also used to fight infections, prevent fever and treat insect bites.
The Victorian's used Ylang Ylang oil in the hair treatment, Macassar Oil, and was the cause of introducing 'Antimacassars' used on the back of chairs and sofas.

Botanical Family

Annonaceae

Key constituents

Methyl benzoate, methyl salicylate, methyl paracretol, benzyl acetate, eugenol, geraniol, linalool , terpenes, pinene, cadinene amongst others.

Main therapeutic properties

Aphrodisiac, antidepressant, antiseborrheic, antiseptic, euphoric, hypotensive, nervine, sedative.

Main therapeutic uses

Acne, hair growth, oily skin, depression, impotence & frigidity, high blood pressure, hypernea (fast breathing), palpitations, depression, insomnia, nervous tension & stress related conditions.

Blends well with

Rosewood, Vetivert, Jasmine, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Mandarin, Patchouli & Sandalwood.

Safety data

Non toxic, non irritant, non sensitising though a few cases have been reported.

Additional information

Ylang Ylang has a deep, heady scent so should be used in moderation as overuse could cause headaches and nausea.
It is an excellent oil to use in blends that are for calming and soothing to the nervous system, for those feeling agitated or frustrated, all too common in these stressful times.
Placing a few drops into a diffuser will create a soothing and peaceful atmosphere and the oil can be enjoyed by adding to a warm bath to help relax before retiring for the night. Useful for insomnia especially when worry and stress are causing restless nights.
The name Ylang Ylang means 'flower of flowers'.
DistillatesYlang Ylang Extra is the oil produced from the first distillation of the freshly picked flowers which produces about 40% of the total oil. The scent of 'Extra' has a depth that is absent from the further distillations.
Personally I find the 'Extra' oil a delight to use and love the strong heady scent though always dilute the oil well as I do find it can be overpowering and quite sickly if too much is used. I cannot say I like the scent of the other grades at all, although they have a Ylang Ylang scent there is definitely something missing and are really quite different.
When I first began my journey with aromatherapy I disliked Ylang Ylang and rarely used it as I found the scent quite overpowering and unpleasant. At the time being new to aromatherapy I didn't know that there were other grades and had been 'put off' the oil. Only after some time did I discover there were varying grades and bought some of each to compare. Once I smelt the Extra there was no turning back for me and this is the reason we only supply Extra not only because I like the scent but I feel that the Extra is the 'cream of the crop'.
After the first distillation for Ylang Ylang Extra a further three distillations take place and the oils produced are called Grade 1, Grade 2 & Grade 3. The lower grade 3 being mainly used for scenting products like soaps & detergents and not really suitable for aromatherapy use.
A 'complete' oil is also produced that represents a 'total' or 'unfractionated' oil and is generally constructed by blending Grade 1 & 2 together.

Vetivert (Vetiveria zizanoides)

Plant description

A tall perennial grass with long narrow leaves, the plant produces an abundance of white rootlets from which the essential oil is produced.

History

Vetivert has been used in the East since antiquity. The rootlets are highly scented and are often woven into straw matting to create a scented aromatic mat for domestic use. Traditionally grown in India to protect against soil erosion during the Monsoon season. In both India and Sri Lanka the oil is known as 'the oil of Tranquillity' reaffirming the relaxing and soothing effect of Vetivert.

Botanical Family

Poaceae

Key constituents

Veiverol, vitivone, terpenes & vetivenes.

Main therapeutic properties

Antiseptic, antispasmodic, depurative, rubefacient, sedative for the nervous system, stimulating to circulatory system, vermifuge.

Main therapeutic uses

Acne, oily skin, arthritis, muscular aches, rheumatism, sprains, depression, nervous tension and stress related conditions.

Blends well with

Sandalwood, Rose, Jasmin, Patchouli, Lavender, Clary Sage & Ylang Ylang.

Safety data

Non toxic, non irritant, non sensitising.

Additional information

Vetivert is a thick, dark brown oil with an earthy woody scent. The oil is produced in several countries but the main supply of oil comes from Haiti, Java and Reunion Isles.
There is a considerable difference in scent depending where the oil has been produced. In some areas of production the 'grass' is burnt before the roots are dug up and cleaned for distillation of oil. This gives the oil a strong smoky scent often overpowering the sweet earthy note of the plant. This oil tends to be much cheaper than the oil produced in Haiti where the grass is not burnt.
Distillation is a slow and labour intensive process as the roots must be cleaned and washed before a slow distillation takes place.
Botanically Vetivert is related to lemongrass, Citronella & May Chang.

Why I like this Oil

I love the deep, earthy scent of this oil and find that it is very useful for male clients who tend not to like the sweeter more floral oils. I only use the oil produced in Haiti, I have had samples of the oil from Java but personally found the scent unpleasant and overpowered by the smokiness and quite off putting when comparing the oils. There is quite a difference in price but I feel this oil is worth it, known as ' the oil of tranquillity' for very good reason as it is deeply relaxing both for massage and used in baths.
I tend to use Vetivert for clients who are feeling the effects of stress as it not only relaxes but also is a good immuno-stimulant helping us to withstand the detrimental effects of stress in our lives. As with most stress related conditions muscular aches and pains add to the discomfort of many people and the warming scent and action of Vetivert helps to soothe frazzled nerves and tense muscles. I often recommend a relaxing bath using Vetivert especially for clients who have been through any kind of trauma such as separation, shock or bereavement. I encourage them to relax in a warm bath and inhale the soothing aroma of Vetivert before retiring for the night.

Cabbage Rose Rosa centifolia

Plant description

The Rose that is generally used for oil production is strictly a hybrid involving Rosa centifolia, Rosa damascena and Rosa gallica. Known as Rose de mai it grows to 2.5m in height and has a mass of pink or rosy purple flowers. The oil produced has a reputation for being a strong aphrodisiac with a deep sweet rosy scent. The colour of Cabbage Rose ranges from a deep orangey red to rosy pink colour.

History

It is thought that the first distillation of Rose oil was carried out in Persia by the Arab physician and alchemist Avicenna around the 10th century. Although this cannot be confirmed it is known that Rose oil and Rose water were well known in Arab speaking countries around that time.
Up to the Middle Ages Rose played an important part in the ‘materia medica’ of the times. It was used for a wide range of disorders including digestive, menstrual problems, nervous tension and infections.

Botanical Family

Rosaceae

Key constituents

Cabbage Rose: Citronellol 18-22%, geraniol & nerol 10-15%, stearopten 8%, phenyl ethanol 63%, farnesol 0.2 – 2% plus many other trace elements.

For comparison between Bulgarian Rose and Cabbage Rose oil:
Bulgarian Rose: Citronellol 34-55%, geraniol & nerol 30-40% stearopten 16-22%, phenyl ethanol 1.5%, farnesol 0.3-2% with up to 300 other trace elements.

Main therapeutic properties
Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, chleretic, Emmenagogue, hemostatic, sedative, stomachic.

Main therapeutic uses
Broken capillaries, eczema, herpes, mature skin, palpitations, poor circulation, asthma, menorrhagia, uterine disorders, depression, insomnia, impotence, nervous tension, stress related disorders and headaches.

Blends well with

Rose has a strong scent which blends well with most oils including frankincense, cinnamon, jasmine, neroli, geranium, bergamot, lavender, clary sage, sandalwood and patchouli.

Safety data
Non toxic, non irritant, non sensitising and non-phototoxic.

Additional information

Rose is considered to be a very expensive oil. This is due to the number of petals required to produce a tiny amount of oil, the petals of approximately 30 flowers are required to produce a single drop of Rose oil. Having said this, the scent is so powerful that only one or two drops are required in a blend which makes a bottle last a long time.

Extraction Methods

There are two methods of extraction used for Rose oil.

Steam distillation
Steam Distillation produces Rose Otto. The colour can vary in Rose Otto and the oil can become solid at room temperature, rolling the bottle in the hands is generally enough to liquefy the oil for use. Personally I find the scent affected by the distillation process, in my opinion the oil loses some of its wonderful fragrance.
Rose water is a by-product of the distillation of Rose Oil and is a very useful tonic for facial skin. Rose water is also bactericidal and can be used to treat infection and conjunctivitis.

Absolute
An Absolute is also produced using Rose petals, this has a golden orange colour and is highly scented. Chemicals are used to extract the oil and at one time a residue used to remain in the oil. Due to this chemical content it was recommended that only Steam Distilled Rose (Rose Otto) be used in aromatherapy and many practitioners still believe this to be true.
Benzine was one of the main chemicals used for extraction however modern methods have evolved and now a chemical called Hexene is generally used. This does not leave the toxic chemical residue that Benzine did, making the oil suitable for Aromatherapy use.
By far the best method of extraction is by the carbon dioxide method however this makes the oil prohibitively expensive and very difficult to source.

Adulteration

Due to the high cost of Rose it is often adulterated with cheaper oils. This is always difficult for anyone to detect and often the only way is by Gas Chromatography analysis. Your supplier should be willing to provide analysis sheets on request for all oils although it can be difficult to decipher the information. Here at Ellwoods Of Dumfries we have always provided analysis sheets on request and as an aromatherapist I would rather chop off my right hand than adulterate these beautiful oils.

Diluted Blends

As the cost is so high many people purchase diluted blends of expensive oils such as Neroli, Jasmin and of course Rose. Generally these are 2% or 3% in Grapeseed oil and supplied in 10ml bottles. I believe this is a false economy – the cost can still be considerable and many people will only add a few drops to a blend as this gives a lovely scent. But as the oil has already been diluted adding a few drops will not give the therapeutic benefits that pure Rose provides. Really the whole bottle would need to be used for a treatment!
For example if you purchased a 5ml bottle of Rose from Ellwoods Of Dumfries for £23.00, and 250ml of Grapeseed for £4.00 I would have a 250ml bottle of 2% diluted Rose for £27.00.
The cost of a 10ml bottle of diluted Rose can range from £3.00 to £12.00. Multiply that by 25 and the true cost of 250ml can be £75.00 or up to £300.00 – Something worth considering next time you are thinking of buying Rose Oil!

In my opinion Rose is one of the best oils to use in aromatherapy, it has such a warming and calming effect, the scent is one of pure decadence and it has valuable benefits for all skin types especially dry and mature skin.


Recipe – Night Moisturising Drench
Rose Maroc 5 drops
Frankincense 10 drops
Carrot Seed 5 drops

Diluted into:
50ml Apricot or Peach Kernel

This is a rich moisturising oil ideal for use at night.
Cleanse the face and neck and tone with Rose Water.
Apply a small amount of oil and lightly massage into face and neck area.
Leave the oil to absorb into the skin and nourish through the night.

I love the action of both these oils, excellent for all skin types but especially mature skin.

Rose Bulgarian (Rosa damascena)

Plant description

A small prickly shrub growing to a height of 1 - 2 metres. Bulgarian rose bushes produce pink to orange coloured petals and has whitish hairy leaves.

History

It is thought that the first distillation of Rose oil was carried out in Persia by the Arab physician and alchemist Avicenna around the 10th century. Although this cannot be confirmed it is known that Rose oil and Rose water were well known in Arab speaking countries around that time.Up to the Middle Ages Rose played an important part in the 'materia medica' of the times. It was used for a wide range of disorders including digestive, menstrual problems, nervous tension and infections.

Botanical Family

Rosaceae

Key constituents

Bulgarian Rose: Citronellol 34-55%, geraniol & nerol 30-40% stearopten 16-22%, phenyl ethanol 1.5%, farnesol 0.3-2% with up to 300 other trace elements.
For comparison between the two types of Rose oil available:Cabbage Rose: Citronellol 18-22%, geraniol & nerol 10-15%, stearopten 8%, phenyl ethanol 63%, farnesol 0.2 - 2% plus many other trace elements.

Main therapeutic properties

Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, choleretic, emmenagogue, hemostatic, sedative, stomachic.

Main therapeutic uses

Broken capillaries, eczema, herpes, mature skin, palpitations, poor circulation, asthma, menorrhagia, uterine disorders, depression, insomnia, impotence, nervous tension, stress related disorders and headaches.

Blends well with

Rose has a strong scent which blends well with most oils including frankincense, cinnamon, jasmine, neroli, geranium, bergamot, lavender, clary sage, sandalwood and patchouli.

Safety data

Non toxic, non irritant, non sensitising and non-phototoxic.

Additional information

Rose is considered to be a very expensive oil. This is due to the number of petals required to produce a tiny amount of oil, the petals of approximately 30 flowers are required to produce a single drop of Rose oil. Having said this, the scent is so powerful that only one or two drops are required in a blend which makes a bottle last a long time.

Extraction Methods

There are two methods of extraction used for Rose oil.

Steam distillation

Steam Distillation produces Rose Otto. The colour can vary in Rose Otto and the oil can become solid at room temperature, rolling the bottle in the hands is generally enough to liquefy the oil for use. Rose water is a by-product of the distillation of Rose Oil and is a very useful tonic for facial skin. Rose water is also bactericidal and can be used to treat infection and conjunctivitis.

Absolute

An Absolute is also produced using Rose petals, this has a golden orange colour and is highly scented. Chemicals are used to extract the oil and at one time a residue used to remain in the oil. Due to this chemical content it was recommended that only Steam Distilled Rose (Rose Otto) be used in aromatherapy and many practitioners still believe this to be true. Benzine was one of the main chemicals used for extraction however modern methods have evolved and now a chemical called Hexene is generally used. This does not leave the toxic chemical residue that Benzine did, making the oil suitable for Aromatherapy use.By far the best method of extraction is by the carbon dioxide method however this makes the oil prohibitively expensive and very difficult to source.

Adulteration

Due to the high cost of Rose it is often adulterated with cheaper oils. This is always difficult for anyone to detect and often the only way is by Gas Chromatography analysis. Your supplier should be willing to provide analysis sheets on request for all oils although it can be difficult to decipher the information. Here at Ellwoods Of Dumfries we have always provided analysis sheets on request and as an aromatherapist I could not condone the adulteration of any oil.

Bulgarian Rose Absolute is initially supplied in round metal flasks. These are bound in a muslin type cloth which has a coloured ribbon through the weave. Once the stopper is inserted the material is bound around the neck of the flask sealed with wax and stamped with an authorised seal. The seal cannot be tampered with as it would break the wax or tear the material. This simple method is highly effective in preventing adulteration taking place after the Oil leaves the distillery.

Diluted Blends

As the cost is so high many people purchase diluted blends of expensive oils such as Neroli, Jasmin and of course Rose. Generally these are 2% or 3% in Grapeseed oil and supplied in 10ml bottles. I believe this is a false economy - the cost can still be considerable and many people will only add a few drops to a blend as this gives a lovely scent. But as the oil has already been diluted adding a few drops will not give the therapeutic benefits that pure Rose provides. Really the whole bottle would need to be used for a treatment!

For example if you purchased a 5ml bottle of Rose from Ellwoods Of Dumfries for £23.00, and 250ml of Grapeseed for £4.00 I would have a 250ml bottle of 2% diluted Rose for £27.00.The cost of a 10ml bottle of diluted Rose can range from £3.00 to £12.00. Multiply that by 25 and the true cost of 250ml can be £75.00 or up to £300.00 - Something worth considering next time you are thinking of buying Rose Oil!

In my opinion Rose is one of the best oils to use in aromatherapy, it has such a warming and calming effect, the scent is one of pure decadence and it has valuable benefits for all skin types especially dry and mature skin.

Neroli Citrus aurantium - var.amara

Plant description
A tall evergreen tree with glossy dark green leaves and small fragrant white flowers.




History
Reputedly named after a princess of Nerola in Italy who used the oil as a perfume. The scent comes from the tiny white flowers of the Bitter Orange tree, the tree produces small bitter fruits commonly known as Seville oranges. Orange blossom was often used in Bridal bouquets to calm nervous apprehension.


Botanical Family
Rutaceae


Key constituents
Mainly Linalol (34%) linalyl acetate, limonene, pinene, nerolidol, geraniol, nerol, methyl anthranilate, indole, citral, jasmone among others.


Main therapeutic properties
Antidepressant, Antiseptic, Antispasmodic, Aphrodisiac. Bactericidal, Carminative, Deodorant, Digestive, Fungicidal, Hypnotic.


Main therapeutic uses
Scars, stretch marks, thread veins, mature skin, sensitive skin, palpitations, circulation, anxiety, depression, nervous tension, shock, stress related conditions.


Blends well with
Chamomile, Coriander, Geranium, Clary Sage, Jasmin, Lavender, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Lemon, Grapefruit, Benzoin.


Safety data
Non toxic, non irritant, non sensitising and non-phototoxic.


Additional information
The sweet, gentle scent of Neroli has a calming effect on the nervous system so is a valuable oil to use in most cases of stress related complaints. It is also very useful when digestive problems are a part of stress related symptoms, such as IBS as it can help relieve spasms in the smooth muscles of the intestines.
Neroli is highly prized in cosmetic products due to the rejuvenating effect on the skin. It is especially useful for dry and sensitive skin and is gentle enough to use during pregnancy to aid prevention of stretch marks.
Orange flower water is produced in the distillation process of Neroli and is an excellent skin toner.
The Sweet Orange tree (Citrus aurantium - var. dulcis) also produces an absolute and essential oil called Neroli however this is considered to be of inferior quality and is less fragrant. Always check the botanical name when purchasing oils. As in this case Neroli is the common name but is vastly different from that produced from the Sweet Orange tree.

Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea)

Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea)
A useful to help relax spasm in the bronchial tubes for those who suffer from asthma. An excellent oil to relieve all types of nervous tension and stress which affects many aspects of both work and home life for so many people today.

Plant description :
A biennial or perennial herb growing up to 1 metre in height with large, hairy leaves and small purple or blue flowers..

History:

Clary Sage was highly esteemed in the Middle Ages but largely fell out of use in later years. Mainly used for digestive disorders, kidney disease and menstrual complaints. Like garden Sage it cools inflammation and is especially useful for throat and respiratory infections. Clary Sage can also be used to prevent excessive sweating such as ‘night sweats’ and hot flushes. The effects of Clary Sage can be very relaxing and helpful to relieve all kinds of anxiety and stress related problems.

Botanical Family:

Lamiaceae

Key constituents:

Linalyl acetate (up to 70%), Linalol, Pinene, Myrcene and Phellandrene

Main therapeutic properties:

Antiseptic, Antispasmodic, Deodorant, Digestive, Carminative, Emmenagogue, Euphoric, Nervine, Sedative, Hypotensive.

Main therapeutic uses:
Asthma, throat infections, abdominal cramps, labour pains, inflammation, oily skin & hair, depression, migraine, nervous tension and stress related disorders.

Blends well with:
Juniper, Lavender, Coriander, Cardamom, Geranium, Sandalwood, Frankincense, Bergamot, Lemon and other citrus oils.

Safety data:

Non toxic, non irritant, non sensitising.
Avoid during pregnancy.
Do not drink alcohol after using Clary Sage.

Additional information:

Clary Sage shares many similar properties to traditional Sage but has a much lower thujone content so is much gentler on the system. It is best avoided if alcohol has been consumed or will be taken following treatment with Clary Sage, the effects can heighten the feeling of drunkenness and may cause nightmares.
In the past Clary Sage was known as Eye Clear and was often used to remove dust particles and particles from the eyes.